It can start with a screeching sound on acceleration, a “pop” and a cloud of white smoke, or, at its worst, your car accelerating uncontrollably—a runaway. Or your TDI just stops making power. No matter how it happens, your turbo has failed. And the next question is usually, “Should I upgrade?”
Choosing between a stock or bigger turbo
Deciding whether to replace your turbo with another one just like it or to upgrade can be a complex decision. Or, it might be easy, because there may not be a larger turbo available that will easily fit your TDI. If there are upgrades available for our car, you should consider:
- A bigger turbo may not provide more power unless you make other upgrades (chip tuning, more fuel, better breathing)
- Bigger turbos may require supporting hardware for an easy install that can add to the replacement cost
- With larger turbos many expensive modifications may be required to take full advantage of the turbo’s potential
For example, a VNT-17 on an A4 TDI is a solid, well known upgrade. But it requires a $200 hose or a $100 adapter to fit stock intercooler piping. And bigger injectors (about $300), a chip tune ($300-700+), downpipe ($300-400), and improved intake (costs vary) are required to take full advantage of the power it supplies. And of course you’ll need a clutch. So you can see that choosing a bigger turbo is just the tip of the iceberg.
Many people consider a bigger turbo in hopes of improved reliability. And there are situations, even in stock cars (such as high altitudes) where a bigger turbo may last longer than the OE turbo, so this is a valid consideration.
Limited selection for some TDIs
For some TDIs there are very few options. For others, there are many. Let’s deal with the ones where choice is limited first.
- A5 Jetta, engine code BRM: Your option right now is a stock replacement turbo from VW, or a custom fabrication of manifold and turbo. No plug-and-play turbos that fit this car are in the US aftermarket—yet. With the A5 VW switched the turbo configuration to a top mount (the turbo sits on top of the manifold, not hanging below it as in earlier cars), so turbos from other TDIs won’t fit.
- B5.5 Passat, engine code BHW: This TDI has a separate turbo and manifold. Although there are probably many turbos that can be made to fit, the VNT-17, or Garrett 1749VA, is the only true plug-and-play option that’s readily available. Fortunately this is a great turbo, makes good power, and fails infrequently.
- A3/B4 TDIs, engine codes 1Z and AHU. These early TDIs had wastegate turbos in the US, not the variable vane turbos that are on all later VW TDIs. These two engines are nearly identical, but the 1Z has a Garrett turbo, the AHU has a Borg-Warner. The turbos are interchangeable. Like the B5.5 Passat, these turbos are separate from the manifold. There are other options for these cars including hybrid turbos with larger internals (plug-and-play), and switching to a VNT-15 or larger variable vane turbo (not plug-and-play).


A4 chassis TDIs, lots of options
On 1999.5-2006 A4 platform Golf, Jetta, and New Beetle, there are many turbo options. We’ll limit our discussion here to variable vane turbos with integrated exhaust manifolds. More than a few TDI owners have built their own manifolds, and there are also A4 TDIs out there with wastegate turbos. However, most daily drivers prefer the responsiveness of a variable vane turbo, and don’t want to go to the expense of building a manifold.
Stock Replacements

The ALH engined A4s (rotary pump) came with Garrett’s VNT-15 turbo. A version of this turbo started its life in the A3, but was first sold with an integrated manifold for the ALH engine. It’s very responsive, quite durable (especially if synthetic oil is used throughout its life) and makes great power. The dyno below shows what a VNT-15 can do with a chip and other supporting modifications. And when this dyno was run the turbo had 150K on it.
IBW dyno

The VNT-15 has benefited from running upgrades to vanes, internal metals, and other improvements during its life. It is less prone to carbon clogging (a common cause of failure on gently driven TDIs) than it was in the past. And many owners are out there with over 200K on their original turbos, so they do last.
When the Pumpe Deuse A4 chassis TDIs (engine code BEW) were brought to the US in 2004, VW switched from the Garrett VNT-15 to the Borg-Warner KP-39. This turbo is physically smaller than the VNT-15, but works exceptionally well in both stock and chip-tuned TDIs. 150 HP/240 lb/ft. is possible with this turbo and the right tune. The KP-39 does seem more prone to boost spikes than the VNT-15, especially in modified cars. And they also seem more stressed at high altitudes. Finally, some owners (again, in modified cars) have experienced boost creep at high speeds, eventually sending the car into limp mode. But these problems are neither that common nor catastrophic.
KP-39s just became available in the aftermarket. Because there was such a long delay before they were released, Garrett has made a version of their VNT-17 (1749VB) as a stock replacement for the KP-39

This turbo can be run in a stock BEW, but it also allows more airflow and can handle more boost than the KP-39. 165 HP/270 ft/lbs are possible with this turbo and the right tune and supporting hardware.
Want more?
For several years the VNT-17 was the upgrade turbo of choice for may ALH owners seeking more power. 180+ HP and 350+ ft/lbs are not uncommon.

Installing this turbo is fairly simple. The only major difference between it and a VNT-15 is the compressor (cold side) exit. The VNT-17 has a clip fitting that requires a VW hose or an adapter.

Unfortunately the hose runs about $200, but it allows the VNT-17 to plug right into most A4s. 1999.5 A4s will also need a new lower intercooler pipe, or charge tube, to accommodate the clip fitting at the intercooler end of the hose.
As mentioned above, the VNT-17 is also available as a stock replacement on the BEW, and is plug-and-play on that car. The turbo for the BEW includes a “smart” actuator that provides boost feedback information to the ECU.
Still want more?
If you’ve made other mods to your TDI including air handling (intake and exhaust) intercooling, fueling (bigger nozzles or higher pressure injection pump), and tuning and want more than the turbos listed above can provide, there are more options.
And although the VNT-17 is a popular upgrade on ALH engined TDIs, some drivers have found it less responsive (more lag) than the stock turbo. One way to reduce the lag and increase airflow is to use a larger compressor from a bigger turbo. This is how the 1752, or VNT-17/22, came into existence.

It is a VNT-17 with a compressor housing from a VNT-20. Because the larger compressor is spooling up a smaller exhaust wheel, it is more responsive than the VNT-17. Because it is made of components from two different turbos, it’s called a hybrid. And although its ability to make more maximum power than a VNT-17 is questionable, it does provide maximum torque sooner (lower revs) than the VNT-17 does in most setups. Here’s a dyno of the 17/22 in an ALH with many other mods.

Suppliers have also achieved this result by modifying stock VNT-15 housings to accommodate 17/22 or 18/52 internals. These turbos are available for both ALH and BEW engines, the only difference usually being the actuator. The BEW will usually require intercooler piping modifications for the hybrid intercooler pipe connections to fit properly, depending on the housing used for the compressor.
What to choose?
In summary, bigger turbos can mean more power. But sometimes they can jeopardize driveability with increased lag. Or they cause your car to smoke as they spool up, or cause you to need a new clutch to handle the increased power.
Best way to choose a turbo is to first identify your goal for increased power. Keep in mind that many tuners can improve HP and torque by 30% with a chip alone. Maybe that’s enough and you can stick with a stock replacement. But if you want more, happy shopping.
Related Products
Garrett VNT-15 Turbo (A4-ALH)
Garrett VNT-17/22 Hybrid Turbo (A4-BEW)
Garrett VNT-17/22 Hybrid Turbo (A4-ALH)


Hey man. I have been looking all over for a turbo upgrade for a 2007 Golf 5 1.9TDI. Cannot find a thing,what would you recomend? Thanks
Dayne Riley to please read the article…its very helpfull
I have a 1998 Beetle with close o 300k miles. Turbo died. How do I id the engine ALH, BEW, etc? Most of the postings seem to be for the 99.5 to 06 years. Any thing on earlier models? I would like to upgrade the turbo, injection pump and injectors. Options for not mild , but not wild?? Would like to get another 300K out of it. Dan
Dan – your 1998 New Beetle has the engine code ALH. However, the 1998 was a bit of a black sheep as most components are different (different shapes, electrical connectors, etc.) than the 1999 New Beetle and same generation Golf and Jetta TDI.
1998 (new) beetles have ALH engines.
Driving home this evening, I experienced what appeared to be a complete loss of boost. However the car could still accelerate to hiway speeds albeit at a slower rate. At home, I do not hear the turbo spool up or the burp from the relief valve (the car is stock 100%)
I just had the 150K service at the dealer as I do for all services and no issues were noted. Question, do I have a seized turbine or shot turbo?
sounds like MAF may have died. Check for engine code. 101
I drive a 2006 jetta tdi with close to 58k miles on it everything is stock and i just bought it from a use dealership. when it gets past about 3100rpms or so it looses boost and when im on the highway when i get close to 80mph it doesnt accelerate as fast anymore and it takes a while to pass a car too. is this all normal? ohh! and when i hit the throttle to speed up really fast at times the engine starts to make some bubbling like noises and then there is barly any acceleration. ive been driving heavy duty diesel trucks since i was 14 but never small cars like these so im kind of clueless
It sounds like overboost – the actuator on the turbo may be getting stuck, or the vanes inside the turbo are stuck and unable to limit the boost pressure that is being created. It won’t happen around town as you are constantly shifting gears but on the highway when you keep it in 5th and accelerate the intake pressure goes too high.
Typically this means that the turbo needs to be replaced but its possible to try and clean the vane system and bring it back. See the “Trusted TDI Mechanics List”
I have a 2000 jetta ALH tdi with Sprint 520 injectors and 3inch exhaust. I was getting 25 pounds of boost with my stock turbo! This wasn’t a spike I could get 25 pounds in hard pulls every time for a good amount of time and in every gear except 5th cause of speed limits. I changed some vacuum hoses and got it back down to 20 pounds. I haven’t changed the turbo and I don’t think anyone did before me. An old man owned it before myself. Is it possible for a Vnt 15 Turbo to get these boost numbers? Or is my car taking steroids? I also changed boost gauges and boost hoses because I thought they were faulty, but gave me no change in boost numbers.
Mike – its the combination of fuel and open exhaust. The turbo system on the ALH relies on back-pressure from the OE muffler and CAT to limit turbo over-boost. When you put a 3 inch system on it took that away, allowing the turbo to over spin.
I don’t think it is possible to get the turbo to be both responsive and not over boost in your setup. If you watch your boost numbers and don’t go crazy, the 15 is a fairly durable turbo so it may not matter.
Hi,
I have ALH code tdi, on 2001 golf 4 and want a bit more power. I dont like to upgrade to new clutche, injectors, intertcoolers and ect. With the stock car, what do you think is the best? You mention in the article about the 30% more power from a chip. Doesnt the later exhaust the engine too fast as mechanicaly it remains the same, but working harder?
I am sorry for may be the dumb questions, but i am not an engineer.
Thank you!