It can start with a screeching sound on acceleration, a “pop” and a cloud of white smoke, or, at its worst, your car accelerating uncontrollably—a runaway. Or your TDI just stops making power. No matter how it happens, your turbo has failed. And the next question is usually, “Should I upgrade?”
Choosing between a stock or bigger turbo
Deciding whether to replace your turbo with another one just like it or to upgrade can be a complex decision. Or, it might be easy, because there may not be a larger turbo available that will easily fit your TDI. If there are upgrades available for our car, you should consider:
- A bigger turbo may not provide more power unless you make other upgrades (chip tuning, more fuel, better breathing)
- Bigger turbos may require supporting hardware for an easy install that can add to the replacement cost
- With larger turbos many expensive modifications may be required to take full advantage of the turbo’s potential
For example, a VNT-17 on an A4 TDI is a solid, well known upgrade. But it requires a $200 hose or a $100 adapter to fit stock intercooler piping. And bigger injectors (about $300), a chip tune ($300-700+), downpipe ($300-400), and improved intake (costs vary) are required to take full advantage of the power it supplies. And of course you’ll need a clutch. So you can see that choosing a bigger turbo is just the tip of the iceberg.
Many people consider a bigger turbo in hopes of improved reliability. And there are situations, even in stock cars (such as high altitudes) where a bigger turbo may last longer than the OE turbo, so this is a valid consideration.
Limited selection for some TDIs
For some TDIs there are very few options. For others, there are many. Let’s deal with the ones where choice is limited first.
- A5 Jetta, engine code BRM: Your option right now is a stock replacement turbo from VW, or a custom fabrication of manifold and turbo. No plug-and-play turbos that fit this car are in the US aftermarket—yet. With the A5 VW switched the turbo configuration to a top mount (the turbo sits on top of the manifold, not hanging below it as in earlier cars), so turbos from other TDIs won’t fit.
- B5.5 Passat, engine code BHW: This TDI has a separate turbo and manifold. Although there are probably many turbos that can be made to fit, the VNT-17, or Garrett 1749VA, is the only true plug-and-play option that’s readily available. Fortunately this is a great turbo, makes good power, and fails infrequently.
- A3/B4 TDIs, engine codes 1Z and AHU. These early TDIs had wastegate turbos in the US, not the variable vane turbos that are on all later VW TDIs. These two engines are nearly identical, but the 1Z has a Garrett turbo, the AHU has a Borg-Warner. The turbos are interchangeable. Like the B5.5 Passat, these turbos are separate from the manifold. There are other options for these cars including hybrid turbos with larger internals (plug-and-play), and switching to a VNT-15 or larger variable vane turbo (not plug-and-play).


A4 chassis TDIs, lots of options
On 1999.5-2006 A4 platform Golf, Jetta, and New Beetle, there are many turbo options. We’ll limit our discussion here to variable vane turbos with integrated exhaust manifolds. More than a few TDI owners have built their own manifolds, and there are also A4 TDIs out there with wastegate turbos. However, most daily drivers prefer the responsiveness of a variable vane turbo, and don’t want to go to the expense of building a manifold.
Stock Replacements

The ALH engined A4s (rotary pump) came with Garrett’s VNT-15 turbo. A version of this turbo started its life in the A3, but was first sold with an integrated manifold for the ALH engine. It’s very responsive, quite durable (especially if synthetic oil is used throughout its life) and makes great power. The dyno below shows what a VNT-15 can do with a chip and other supporting modifications. And when this dyno was run the turbo had 150K on it.
IBW dyno

The VNT-15 has benefited from running upgrades to vanes, internal metals, and other improvements during its life. It is less prone to carbon clogging (a common cause of failure on gently driven TDIs) than it was in the past. And many owners are out there with over 200K on their original turbos, so they do last.
When the Pumpe Deuse A4 chassis TDIs (engine code BEW) were brought to the US in 2004, VW switched from the Garrett VNT-15 to the Borg-Warner KP-39. This turbo is physically smaller than the VNT-15, but works exceptionally well in both stock and chip-tuned TDIs. 150 HP/240 lb/ft. is possible with this turbo and the right tune. The KP-39 does seem more prone to boost spikes than the VNT-15, especially in modified cars. And they also seem more stressed at high altitudes. Finally, some owners (again, in modified cars) have experienced boost creep at high speeds, eventually sending the car into limp mode. But these problems are neither that common nor catastrophic.
KP-39s just became available in the aftermarket. Because there was such a long delay before they were released, Garrett has made a version of their VNT-17 (1749VB) as a stock replacement for the KP-39

This turbo can be run in a stock BEW, but it also allows more airflow and can handle more boost than the KP-39. 165 HP/270 ft/lbs are possible with this turbo and the right tune and supporting hardware.
Want more?
For several years the VNT-17 was the upgrade turbo of choice for may ALH owners seeking more power. 180+ HP and 350+ ft/lbs are not uncommon.

Installing this turbo is fairly simple. The only major difference between it and a VNT-15 is the compressor (cold side) exit. The VNT-17 has a clip fitting that requires a VW hose or an adapter.

Unfortunately the hose runs about $200, but it allows the VNT-17 to plug right into most A4s. 1999.5 A4s will also need a new lower intercooler pipe, or charge tube, to accommodate the clip fitting at the intercooler end of the hose.
As mentioned above, the VNT-17 is also available as a stock replacement on the BEW, and is plug-and-play on that car. The turbo for the BEW includes a “smart” actuator that provides boost feedback information to the ECU.
Still want more?
If you’ve made other mods to your TDI including air handling (intake and exhaust) intercooling, fueling (bigger nozzles or higher pressure injection pump), and tuning and want more than the turbos listed above can provide, there are more options.
And although the VNT-17 is a popular upgrade on ALH engined TDIs, some drivers have found it less responsive (more lag) than the stock turbo. One way to reduce the lag and increase airflow is to use a larger compressor from a bigger turbo. This is how the 1752, or VNT-17/22, came into existence.

It is a VNT-17 with a compressor housing from a VNT-20. Because the larger compressor is spooling up a smaller exhaust wheel, it is more responsive than the VNT-17. Because it is made of components from two different turbos, it’s called a hybrid. And although its ability to make more maximum power than a VNT-17 is questionable, it does provide maximum torque sooner (lower revs) than the VNT-17 does in most setups. Here’s a dyno of the 17/22 in an ALH with many other mods.

Suppliers have also achieved this result by modifying stock VNT-15 housings to accommodate 17/22 or 18/52 internals. These turbos are available for both ALH and BEW engines, the only difference usually being the actuator. The BEW will usually require intercooler piping modifications for the hybrid intercooler pipe connections to fit properly, depending on the housing used for the compressor.
What to choose?
In summary, bigger turbos can mean more power. But sometimes they can jeopardize driveability with increased lag. Or they cause your car to smoke as they spool up, or cause you to need a new clutch to handle the increased power.
Best way to choose a turbo is to first identify your goal for increased power. Keep in mind that many tuners can improve HP and torque by 30% with a chip alone. Maybe that’s enough and you can stick with a stock replacement. But if you want more, happy shopping.
Related Products
Garrett VNT-15 Turbo (A4-ALH)
Garrett VNT-17/22 Hybrid Turbo (A4-BEW)
Garrett VNT-17/22 Hybrid Turbo (A4-ALH)

Great and informative artical! Timming is perfect as my 01 Golf TDIs Turbo is in limp mode almost daily these days!
Thank you!
I have always wanted to know what is out there as far as upgraded intakes go. I’ve heard that the R32 uses the same paper air filter as most tdi’s and that the oil K&N filters are dangers for your turbo. So what are the options available?
Replacing a failed Turbo with the Garrett VNT-15 was power enough compared to driving a New Beetle with a failed charger. Driving on a failed Turbo also seems to cause significant carbon buildup in the Turbo intake channel. Mechanic scraped out about a pound of it.
Not a good idea to drive a dead turbocharger. I drove my B4 Garrett turbo to failure at about 450,000 miles. I like to live on the edge
If the seals fail due to excess play in the bearings, your diesel car will suck oil for fuel and run away. Be prepared to lock the brakes to stall the engine. You have only a few seconds. Mine survived the experience just fine and now has a new turbo from TDIParts. 503,000 miles and counting. BTW, black muck in the intake manifold and head is a way of life with these cars.
You’re not kidding. Though it seems worst with the ALH engine vehicles. Even stock power is impressive when compared to a vehicle with sixty-thousand miles of intake buildup.
Runaways are scary things – and if it starts and you don’t catch it quickly you might burn up your clutch when getting it in gear. Jim, do you have any pictures of your half-million-mile B4?
Has anything changed as far as turbo upgrades for the BRM engine yet? I had a guy tell me that I could run an older Garrett turbo on a custom intake and downpipe but I can’t get prices. Any info would help. Thanks in advance.
Peter@IDparts found some models that seem like they *could* fit. I haven’t heard of any upgrade installs yet.
I’ve got a 2004 jetta tdi with a bew engine. I’m wondering if the smart actuator will adjust for turbo spikes? It rotted off the bracket and I’ve welded it back on and tried to keep the same adjustment. is there a base adjustment when installing the part? If so, can you tell me what it would be?
You’re not kidding. Though it seems worst with the ALH engine vehicles. Even stock power is impressive when compared to a vehicle with sixty-thousand miles of intake buildup.
Runaways are scary things – and if it starts and you don’t catch it quickly you might burn up your clutch when getting it in gear. Jim, do you have any pictures of your half-million-mile B4?
what is he difference between a ALH and a BRM have a 06 vw jette tdi and have burnt valve and dealer said i have to change the head and all
One thing people with ALH engines should upgrade is their turbo charger actuator vacuum hose. If you get down underneath the car, with the skid plate removed, look up at the bottom of the round turbo actuator. Look at where the vacuum line plugs into the center of the turbo actuator with a metal nipple. On my 2001 New Beetle TDI, that vacuum hose was cut too short from the factory, making the hose kink at the turbo actuator nipple.
All throughout the first 68K miles portion of my car’s life, I was not getting full turbo boost because this vacuum line was restricted and collapsing on itself under hard throttle + hot temperature. An actual hole in the hose finally developed at that kink, causing the engine to throw a CEL and finally go into limp mode. Using the CEL code and limp mode diagnostic procedures posted on TDIClub.com, I found the vacuum hose problem and replaced it with a beautiful, thick rubber hose of sufficient length that will not collapse on itself and is no longer kinked at the turbo actuator connection point.
Wow! What a difference in performance this magic hose made to my car’s acceleration! Even if your car is not throwing a CEL, I would highly recommend replacing that vacuum hose. The original rubber hose did not have very thick walls, so I believe that the original hose could easily collapse on itself under heavy vacuum and hot temperature, which will restrict the turbo actuator from working 100%. The replacement hose from mcmaster.com (5041K521) has much thicker and stiffer rubber, which should make it far better than the original. They sell it in 10ft minimum length, I only used about 4ft of it.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=5041K521&pagenum=114