505.00, 505.01, 507.00 – What do these mean? 10,000 mile oil change interval? Really? 5W-40, 5W-30, 0W-30, which is better?
Driving a VW TDI means questioning and sometimes tossing out some long-held beliefs about oil and oil change intervals (OCI). Pulling into your local quick-lube store and letting them put whatever’s in the drum below the floor into your car can be disastrous to your TDI. We’re going to try to make it simple and help you choose the oil your TDI requires.
Why is Correct Oil so Important?
If you drive a TDI you already know it’s a remarkable engine. Few, if any other engines offer a comparable combination of power, economy, and longevity. However, several aspects of the TDI’s design make it hard on oil.
First, the TDI’s high compression puts its piston rings very close to the point of combustion. Engineers soon learned that conventional oils could leave deposits, or coke, on the piston rings, which would jeopardize their function, increasing oil consumption.
Second, Oil is the life blood of a turbocharger. If oil cokes or gathers residue then it can clog the turbo oil feed line, starving the turbo of oil and ending its life. Not a good thing.
Third, newer TDIs (‘04 and later) have injection systems that are generate very high fuel injection pressures but are also hard on camshafts. These cars require oil that can keep cam lobes lubricated in that high pressure environment.
Fourth, TDIs emissions systems have become much more sophisticated in recent years, requiring oils to be refined without components that can harm those systems.
Finally, all manufacturers are after maximum fuel economy and the longest possible oil change intervals in all their cars, and keeping oil in cars longer while providing the best possible fuel economy figures put additional demands on oils.
Oil Standards and Specifications
VW has established and tests oils to standards it has set for its engines. There are several other industry standards for engine oils, but for simplicity we’ve stuck with VW’s standards here along with oil viscosity measures that are commonly used in the US.
Will oils that do not meet or include VW standards work in your TDI? Probably. Oils that meet other standards such as ACEA or API may be fine for your VW. In fact, some owners purposely use oil that does not meet VW’s specifications because they believe it’s better for their TDIs than the ones VW certifies. Just keep in mind that VW may ask for proof that your car has used only oil meeting their standards in the event of a warranty claim.
Synthetic versus Non-Synthetic
This distinction is not as simple as you may think. Although all the oils that meet the standards in the chart above are considered synthetics, many of them may start with mineral oil base stocks, or esters. You’ll see terms like “synthetic technology,” or “pure synthetic,” on labels. But once again, if it meets the standard, it’s OK. And in the world of TDIs, if it meets the standard it is going to be synthetic oil.
Diesel Versus Gasoline
There’s a simple point here: Diesel engine oils have different requirements because, in part, of the need to keep soot in suspension in the oil between changes. You’ll notice that the oil in your TDI turns black very quickly after a change. That doesn’t mean it’s dirty, it is keeping the soot the engine generates in suspension. The presence of that soot is an oil design consideration. There are many oils that meet both gasoline and diesel standards, but beware of oils that are designed only for gasoline engines, even if they are synthetic.
Match the Rating to Your Engine
The table below lists the TDIs sold in North America and years they were sold, the oil they require, and some (not all) of the oil brands that offer oils that meet the standard.
| Model/Years | Engine Type/Code | Oil Standard | Suggested Brands/Weight |
| 1996-1997 Passat
1996-1999 Jetta |
Rotary pump injection TDI, Codes 1Z, AHU | 505.00 | Castrol SLX Professional, Lubro Moly Synthoil Premium, Pentosin, Total Quartz Energy 9000, Mobil 1, 5W40, 0W40, 0W30 |
| 1999.5-2003 Golf, Jetta, New Beetle | Rotary pump injection TDI, Code ALH | 505.00 | Castrol SLX Professional, Lubro Moly Synthoil Premium, Pentosin, Total Quartz Energy 9000, Mobil 1, 5W40, 0W40, 0W30 |
| 2004-2006 Golf, Jetta, New Beetle
2004-2005 Passat |
Unit Injection, or Pump Deuse (PD) TDI, Codes BEW, BHW | 505.01 | Castrol SLX Professional, Lubro Moly Top Tech 4100, Pentosin High Performance II, Total Ineo MC3, 5W30, 5w40 |
| 2009 and later Jetta and Golf TDIs | Common Rail, Code CBEA | 507.00 | Castrol SLX Gold, Total 504/507, Lubro Moly Top Tech 4200, Mobil 1 ESP, 5w30 |
The brands listed here are not exhaustive, there are others. And there are yet more oil brands that claim to be “designed for engines with 505.00 (or 505.01) oil requirements”, or words to that effect. Just keep in mind that if the VW standard isn’t printed on the label, the oil probably hasn’t been certified by VW. It’s your choice whether or not to use that oil.
What about 506.00?
VW has a 506.00 standard for oils that were considered good to use in cars that require 505.01 oils (PDs), and was also specified for the V-10 Touareg. This was a 0W30 weight oil that helped improve fuel economy. However, 506.00 oil was very expensive and did not match the lubrication or protective standards set by 505.01, and has been phased out. The Lubro Moly Top Tech 4200, a higher 507.00 specification oil, is also specifically approved for vehicles requiring 506.00 and 506.01.
What about Weight?
Europe and America use multiple viscosity ratings for oils. And there are a couple of trends in the oil industry when it comes to viscosity:
- Oil viscosity numbers are getting lower
- Lighter weight oils work better than they used to at high temperatures
Emissions and fuel economy requirements have, in many cases, driven manufacturers to use lighter weight oils. Since EPA measures include a cold start, light weight oil helps cars perform better in that test. Also, engine tolerances are much tighter than in past years. Thinner oil (especially when cold) can help provide lubrication during those first few critical seconds after a cold start. And today’s synthetics provide much better protection when hot than mineral-based oils did, even if their viscosity rating is lower. For example, 5W30 weight oil is considered fine for all driving conditions in PD and Common Rail TDIs, even in the desert in summer.
505.00 oils (for rotary pump TDIS) have the widest viscosity ratings of VW oils, and include 0W30 and 0W40. Although 5W40 oil is most popular in this category, many owners in cold climates like using 0W30 or 0W40 in winter.
And both 5W30 and 5W40 oils are available for oils meeting the 505.01 standard (PDs). Both are fine for use in all climates, although some owners prefer 5W40 over 5W30.
10,000 miles? Really?
All TDIs have a 10,000 mile oil change interval (OCI) after break-in. After generations of 3,000 mile OCIs many owners have difficulty accepting the 10,000 mile interval as safe. But 10,000 miles has proven to be a more than reasonable interval. Many owners run their oil longer. TDIs are proving to last many hundreds of thousands of miles without major wear using a 10,000 OCI with the correct oil, and many feel it’s wasteful to change it more often.
Soot build up is the primary reason for oil breakdown in diesels. As oil advances further technologically the different specifications have been increasingly tolerant of high soot levels in the oil. This results in many european vehicles with flexible service intervals to go 30,000 miles or more between oil changes.
Summary
Simple enough. If your car:
- Has a rotary injection pump, use oil that meets VW’s 505.00 standard
- Is a PD, use oil that meets VW’s 505.01 standard
- Is a Common Rail, use oil that meets VW’s 507.00 standard
Diesel on!
i have 2 TDI Jettas one 02 AT and a 00 5 speed.
i use Mobil 1 5W-40 for Turbo Diesel Engines.
they are running great.
Both car are quieter.
If there are better oil let me know
thanks
I think that oil is fine for your cars. I get a bit confused with Mobil 1’s names and packaging. I’m not sure the oil you’re using has a VW 505.00 certification, but I also think many people us it in their TDIs with good results.
I have a 2003 Jetta TDI, ALH. For four years I used Castrol TXT 5w-40, but then bought Elf Excellium (synthetic) 5w-40 from TDI Parts and used it for several oil changes. I noted no problems, but don’t see it listed here. Why not? I think I will go back to Castrol.
Total Lubricants is the parent company for the brand name Elf. They have stopped selling products under the Elf name in the US. The applicable oil for your car is now Total Quartz Energy 9000.
Theres got to be something wrong with mine. I bought a used TDI Jetta 07 model with 35K miles. I don’t live around a VW service department so I used a local place to change the oil. So, I bought a filter from Oriellys a Wicks or something, and purchased their supposed fully synthetic Mobil 1 5w40 for turbo diesels. Within 2 weeks and 500 miles my oil level is down to almost 2 qts when I took it to a dealership. The dealership has changed the oil this time and I’m going to monitor the oil consumption rate. Has anyone encountered this?
Well your first problem might be there were no 07 TDI’s (in north america) Only 06′ and now the 09’s. Vw considers oil consumption of 1 liter on 1000 km normal. If it’s more than that it might be a problem.
use the dealer VW filter’s or germany Mann,those others are substandard,I think the germany filters hold oil thus no “dry” starts,or so I’ve read
i just bought a sae 10w40 and replaced the oil in my golf3 D 1994 is it going to be alright?
Probably. I think it should meet vw 500.00 standard for that car, but I’m guessing.
forgot to say it is an agip oil brand what do you tink about it?
where can i buy 505.1 oil for my 2006 beetle?
Is it OK to use a progressively higher-number rated oil in an older vehicle, or is each number exclusive to the vehicle listed?
You could, but why would you? I’ve run 15/50 in my wagon for track use, and it works well. But all you’ll get in street use is a bit lower consumption, perhaps.
Using a VW diesel specific engine oil is critical to maintaining your cars EGR valve and reducing the build up of carbon soot in its intake manifold. Oils that do not do a good job of capturing soot will pass excess amounts of soot through the EGR and into the intake manifold causing both to become clogged, reducing your cars efficency; both powers and fuel economy will suffer. 505,00 and especially 505,01 are very good at soot capture. One reason that these oils are speced by VW is that they are used by VW to meet emission standards; they keep the carbon soot in the oil rather than in the atmosphere.
I changed the oil in my 2001 TDI Golf about 4 months ago, and put the LiquiMoly Synthoil Diesel High Tech 5W40 that you used to sell(?) in to replace the Amsoil that I’d been running in it for years previously. I used to change the Amsoil every year, whether it needed it or not, but this stuff hasn’t lasted 1/2 as long. It’s thickening up and turning to goo in the bitter cold of Arkansas (tongue in cheek), and I’m going to have to do a quick, unexpected change. I’m glad to see you stopped selling this junk…did you do it because of complaints? I wish I’d known it. Anyway, just my .02 worth….
george
No complaints, it just didn’t sell well. I don’t know what to say about your issues. It might be worthwhile to have it analyzed to see if there’s anything wrong with the oil. Observation isn’t necessarily a good gauge of oil quality.
1999.5 Jetta. TDI, 276,000 miles on Chevron Delo 400 LE SAE 15W-40 bought at Wally Wolrd. Can’t be simpler than that!
Sorry, cut and pasted too fast, make that Delo® 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-40 !
I used Elf 506 / 0W30 for almost three years. According to the blog, this was a mistake, even though I chose this oil from this website as an acceptable, high-economy oil for 505.01 applications. Due to good marketing, I thought this low-ash oil would be superior with regards to soot uptake and suspension, fuel economy, and cold-weather operation. I now use Total Quartz Ineo M3 (505.01) and have not suffered a drop in fuel economy; not until I bought new tires that is.
Am I using the best, reasonably priced oil now? or am I messing up again?
I have no oil consumption issues and my fuel economy was as high as ever until I bought new tires. Performance does seem a little sluggish as compared to when it was new, however, I rarely push her hard.
Should I check some things out to see if there is damage? or should I chose continue to use 505.01 oil.
Hi TDI Lovers…Just got my first TDI Golf 2002 here in Toronto, Canada…
I want to get under and do my own oil changes any suggestions how to get the car to a proper height..do dose 7 inch ramps work…?
7″ ramps should be fine.
I’m a new owner of a 98 TDI Jetta and just bought a gallon of a 5-40 synthetic (a major brand, I forget which) from Walmart (ca $22). It has has a bunch of different certifications for Volvo, Mercedes, and other diesel engines (mostly trucks it seems). It doesn’t have any 505 or similar certifications. Would it be safe to use it this time (big hassle to take it back!) and make sure I get the right one next time? Thanks!
A lot of people use Mobil Diesel Truck oil in their TDIs. Also available at Wal-Mart is Shell Rotella T. If it’s in a blue bottle it’s OK for your car. If it’s the white bottle (15W40), then it’s not.
Hi TDI Lovers…how can I replace the light bulb on the driver side …do I need to remove the battery…I have a 2002 Golf…thanks for the info…
Once-a-year oil changes even for us low-mileage drivers? Right now I’m putting only about 9,000 miles a year on my 2003 ALH TDI, with little highway driving or longer trips. I’ve been changing the oil twice a year for safety’s sake, but do I need to bother with that or is once a year enough? Is there a time-based recommendation for ALH oil changes?
I think VW would say that once a year is plenty. The latest Polo in Europe has a 30K/24month oil change interval.
Carlo, you don’t need to remove the battery. Take the intake cover off (2 screws) and you should be able to get the cover off the light. It’s tight, but can be done.
What about 506.00?
VW has a 506.00 standard for oils that were considered good to use in cars that require 505.01 oils (PDs), and was also specified for the V-10 Touareg. This was a 0W30 weight oil that helped improve fuel economy. However, oil consumption and wear issues in engines using this oil has resulted in most refiners not offering this oil any longer, at least in the US.
IT’s false!
Firstly, the oil is 506.01, not 506.00
Secondly, it’s not in US just because diesel is havin TOO MUCH acid.
506.00 was most often a 0w30 spec that was supposed to be “high economy”, and was the only spec approved for the V10 TDI (in the US Touareg) before 507.00
506 in cars approved for 505.01 or 505.00 usually resulted in a 3-4 mpg increase. However, this oil was EXPENSIVE, 18 dollars a liter, though got down to 14 when it was discontinued and warehouses were trying to get rid of their stock.
507 came along to be an oil for all cars, and using it in such a volume that it could be made cheaper than the niche-506. It is not as efficient as the 506, but there is some anecdotal stories and oil analysis that say the 506 wasn’t very good at protecting engine components, and that 507 fairs better in that regard.
Actually it seems that 507.00 cannot replace 506.01 totally. Some engines depending on production date are not supposed to use 507.00, so if you have a TR5 or V10 Tdi 2004-2006 you are better off trying to get 506.01 instead. Not sure, if in case no 506.01 is available, the 505.01 or 507.00 is the better choice, though….
Haven’t read of this. All the documentation I’ve seen lists the 507 as approved for all the earlier cars too.
I recently bought a used 2001 Golf TDI and when I asked about oil changes at a QuickLane (it’s right by my house) they offer regular oil changes for $20, and charge $120 for my car. They claim it’s because the car requires a “special oil.” Is there any basis to their claim? From what I understand, these synthetic oils cost about double the amount of conventional oils, but unless the oil filter is outrageously expensive, their inflated price for a TDI oil change has no real basis. Am I correct? And by the way, they use the Mobil 1 Turbodiesel oil.
They’re right, but their pricing is a bit high. Your car requires an oil that meets VW’s 505.00 specification. A five liter jug of the correct oil costs about $35 for Total or Pentosin, or you can buy Rotella T (blue bottle) at Wal-Mart for about $20/gallon. I’d stay away from a quick lube place not only because of the oil issue but they’re also known for over-torquing the drain plug and destroying aluminum oil pans.