Cabin filters are often neglected. And neglect can affect quality of the air inside your car and a very dirty filter can restrict airflow, causing you to be warmer or cooler than you’d like.

Here’s how to change the cabin filter.

Where is it?

VW moved the cabin filter from under the rain tray in the engine compartment to behind the glove box in the passenger cabin with the introduction of the 5th generation of the A platform cars. You can get to it by looking up at the glove box base in the passenger footwell.

Replacing the filter

Replacement is easy. All you need is a standard screwdriver.

There’s a piece of carpet in the top of the passenger footwell, between the glove box cover and the firewall. It’s held in place with two screws. Remove the screws and pull the carpet out.

Once you’ve removed the carpet, you’ll see a narrow piece of plastic that holds the filter in place. Slide it towards the passenger side door and it’ll come out.

Pull the old cabin filter out and slide in a new one.

Replace the plastic cover, and screw the carpet back into place.

You’re done!

Special thanks to TDIClub member btcost for both the vehicle and doing the actual work!

TDIs are sensitive to fuel quality. And the fuel filters on A5s, in particular, seem to require following a strict change schedule. Hard starting, loss of power, poor fuel economy—these are all symptoms of a clogging fuel filter.

As A5 TDI owners know, VW has flip-flopped on fuel filters for A5 platform TDIs. In this how-to we’ll help you identify what fuel filter your A5 uses, and step you through the filter change.

Which filter does my A5 use?

A5 chassis cars (2005.5-present Jettas) used three fuel filters. Two of them are, for all intents and purposes, identical, and one is different. Here’s the breakdown:

• 1K0 127 434: Used by early A5 cars, engine code BRM, with the last six digits of the VIN starting in numbers up to 83.
• 1K0 127 434A: Visually the same as the filter above, same applications.
• 1K0 127 434B: Used on late 2006 and 2006.5 A5 cars, engine code BRM, with the last six digits of the VIN starting in numbers higher than 83

Here’s where it gets a bit confusing. VW completed an additional production run in late 2006, probably to provide cars for sale during the 2007 model year, where no TDIs were sold in the US. At some point they re-started the counting on the last six digits of the VIN, so you can have a late 2006 car with a very low VIN (last six starting with 00 or higher). These cars also use the 1K0 127 434B late filter.

When VW introduced the CBEA engine in the 2009 Jetta, they went back to using the early fuel filter. The 1K0 127 434 and 434A filters will fit these cars, same as it does the 2005.5 and early 2006 cars.  HOWEVER, 2010 Golf TDI uses the late style filter.  There is a good thread on TDIClub, What Fuel Filter Do You Have?

If you’re in doubt about which filter your car takes, best bet is to remove the top of the filter canister according to the instructions below and take a look. The pictures in this how-to are of a 2009 CBEA Jetta, so it has the early filter. The tip-off is the 5 circle gasket in the cover, and the hole in the top of the filter.

Service interval

The recommended filter change interval on BRM and CBEA TDIs is 20,000 miles. Many BRM owners experienced symptoms of filter clogging much sooner than the 20K change interval, and have adopted the practice of changing the filter every 10K, when they change the oil. Fuel quality probably has a lot to do with filter life, so you may have a different experience based on where you purchase your fuel. It’s your choice.

Changing the filter

The filter sits in a large canister behind the passenger side headlight in the engine compartment. Start by removing the bolts on the filter canister cover (T27 bolts).

Carefully pry the top off the canister and move it aside, and set it on some towels to prevent fuel spilling.

Here you can see the 5 hole gasket that indicates an early A5 or CBEA fuel filter.

Pull the filter out of the canister. It will probably appear black. This is caused by some chemical change in ULSD when heated.

Once the top is off the filter canister, we recommend removing and draining the canister itself, as the action of removing the filter may dislodge debris that will remain in the canister unless you drain it. Contrary to some printed information, there is no drain on the bottom of the canister.

There are two 13mm bolts holding the canister in the car. Remove those and you can pull the canister out of the car.

Drain the fuel out of the canister for disposal.

With the canister out of the car, remove the 5 hole gasket and replace it with a new one, provided with the replacement filter

Place the new filter in the canister

There’s a large sealing ring on the canister top. Remove and replace the seal with the one provided with the filter.

Once you’ve put the new filter in the canister, bolted the canister back in place, and replaced the seals, you can replace the canister top. It will only go on one way: there’s a pin in the top and a hole in the canister to align the top.

Fit the top back on the canister and tighten the bolts. Note the bolts are quite soft and should not be overtightened. The seal will work: Don’t make them too tight.

One benefit of the A5 over the earlier cars is the in-tank lift pump will fill the canister. Cycle the key twice to make sure the canister fills, and start the car. It’s probably a good idea to keep the revs up around 2000 for 10 seconds or so to make sure the car doesn’t stall as it clears any accumulated air out of the fuel lines.

You’re done!

Remember to be sensitive to any loss in power or hard starting that may indicate a clogged filter. If you have persistent filter issues at a shorter than 10K change interval you may want to change fuel sources.

Special thanks to TDIClub member btcost for the car and the actual work!

VW TDIs are turbocharged engines with precise air metering. This means that the intake air has to be clean to protect the turbo and Mass Airflow Sensor. It also helps to keep moisture out of the air system where possible. And the airbox on a TDI should seal well to protect both against dirt and innacurate Mass Airflow readings.

Even though most folks agree that the manufacturer’s recommended 10,000 mile oil change interval is the way to go, there’s lots of debate regarding how often to replace the air and fuel filters in TDIs, especially CBEAs. Some people change air filters as often as every 10,000 miles, but most feel every 20,000 miles is a good interval. Whatever change interval you choose, the filter change is quick and easy. Here’s how to do it.

What will you need?

Air filter, part number 1K0 129 620 or 620A. The difference between these two filters is the number ending in the letter A includes a pre-filter. CBEA engines have a two part airbox that can draw air from inside the engine compartment if the snorkel to the outside is blocked. The prefilter helps keep moisture out of the engine when the airbox is accessing air from the engine compartment.

Many people decide to save a few dollars and forgo the prefilter. Whether or not you use one is up to you. However, we believe that all CBEA TDIs in North America were delivered with pre-filters. It’s your choice.

All you’ll need is a Phillips head screwdriver for this swap. Easy.

Changing the filter

There are a total of six screws on the top of the air filter box, four on the filter and two on the MAF connector. Remove the four airbox screws

Then remove the two screws on the MAF connector.

You can see all six screws in this top down view

Once the screws are out, lift the cover and remove the filter. Here you can see the old (20K) and new filters side-by-side.

If you look at the dirty filter you can see the line made by the partition in the airbox.

Put the new filter in place. It should fit snugly. Press the cover into place and replace the screws. You’re done!

A final note

Folks sometimes like to open their airbox to take a look at their filter to see if it’s time for replacement. This isn’t a good idea. Manufacturers maintain that the gasket on the filter is designed to seal—once. Technically, if you open the box you should replace the filter as it won’t seal as well the second time.

Anyone who’s done any research on VW TDIs know VW has some very specific oil requirements for these engines. And the requirements change with each new generation TDI. The ‘09 and later TDIs with common rail engines (Engine Code CBEA) require oil that meets VW’s 507.00 specification. Castrol has joint ventured with VW to create an oil for this purpose, and Total, Lubro-Moly, and some other refiners also have an oil that will work in this engine.

Many owners worry about the dealer or repair shop putting the correct oil in their TDI. The best way to be sure is to do it yourself! This how-to shows how easy it is to do on your own.

In this how-to we’ve changed the oil using the traditional method of removing the drain plug and draining the oil from the pan. Many owners prefer to use an extractor to pull the oil out of the pan through the dipstick tube. The CBEA can make this a little more challenging than earlier TDIs because of baffles in the pan. So we’re showing the old-fashioned way.

What will you need?

Pretty simple:

• An oil filter, VW Part Number 071115562C. These filters are made by Mann (VW OE), Mahle, and other makers
• Five liters of 507.00 oil
• A new drain plug or crush washer for your existing drain plug

Some VW drain plugs have captive washers. Most folks recommend replacing them when changing the oil. Many owners have re-used them with no ill effects. It’s up to you.

You’ll also need the following tools:

• Torx wrenches (T25 & T27) to remove the lower engine cover
• A 19mm wrench (box, socket, or open ended—3/4″ will also work)
• An oil drain plan
• Water pump pliers or an oil filter wrench to remove the top of the filter canister
• A small screwdriver or pick to remove the O-rings from the filter canister cover
• Some paper towels to protect some areas of the engine compartment and clean up
• A way to get the nose of the car in the air: ramps, jack stands, or, best yet, a lift. Please do not use a jack to support the car, it’s not safe.
• Rubber gloves are really helpful, too, and plan on getting oil on your clothes. It seems impossible to avoid, at least for some of us.

Preparation

The oil should be warm and have circulated through the engine just before changing. Best way is to drive the car a few miles (5 would be plenty) to warm up the oil and make sure the impurities are in suspension. Don’t drive too much or the oil will be unpleasantly hot.

Draining the oil

Get the front of the car high enough in the air so you can reach under it and remove the lower engine cover. Once the cover is off and out of the way, put a drain pan under the oil pan. Use the 19mm wrench to remove the drain plug. Remember the head of the bolt is pointing away from the front of the car when you decide which way to turn it.

Remember the oil will flow rearward, make sure it isn’t going to miss the pan.

Once the drain plug is out, let the oil drain and turn your attention to the filter.

Removing the filter

Many VWs now have paper filter cartridges that live in a canister on the left side (towards the radiator) of the engine. This system makes changing the filter significantly easier and neater than removing a spin-on filter.

The canister has a black top, and what looks like a very large nut on top of it. It’s probably bigger than the sockets you have (about 35mm). If you have one that will fit, use it to loosen the top. If not, you can use a pair of water pump pliers to loosen the top.

Remove the filter canister top. There’s a wrapped line in front of the canister that’s covered in heat insulation. You may want to protect that from drips by covering it with a paper towel.

Once the top is off, pull the filter out of the canister. You may want to have a plastic bag available to put the filter in as soon as it comes out to reduce dripping

Sometimes the spindle on the filter will break off in the canister, as it did in the center of the picture below. If it does, you’ll have to remove it with a pair of pliers. Some people also like to use an extractor to remove the last bits of oil from the filter canister.

Once the canister is clear of the old filter, including the spindle, you can put the new filter in place. It’s pretty easy to get right side up as the spindle points down.

Open the o-ring that came with the filter and replace the one on the canister top. Put the top back on. Tightening torque is very little, about 8 ft/lbs. You really don’t need to make it more than barely hand tight. The gasket will do its job.

Putting it back together

Replace the drain plug. Torque spec is not a lot, about 12 ft/lbs. Remember the pan is aluminum and you don’t want to damage it.

Be sure you’re using the right oil

Put 4 liters in the car, check the dipstick. A5s have what we think is one of the world’s most confusing dipsticks, so you may want to consult your owner’s manual to be sure of the correct level

Once the car’s buttoned up and at least 4 liter of oil is in it, start it up. Check for leaks. Shut it off and check the oil. If the nose of the car is in the air, don’t fine tune the oil level until the car is level.

If you’re satisfied that you’re leak-free, replace the lower engine cover and put the car on a level surface. Let it sit for a few minutes and then check the oil. Add oil as needed. You should have about ½ liter left when you’re done.

Congratulations!

Many of us changed our own oil when we were in our teens, but have gotten away from it as work, family, and other demands (or lack of a place to do it) got in the way. It’s one of the simplest things you can do for your TDI. And it’s rewarding to know that you’ve done it right with the right spec oil.